Like the old days would not be a good thing! So just taping off the ignition power might Granted this was due to their wiring BS, but I'm just saying. Now I'm not an active wrencher but I do know I had to buy a special cord for my 2008 silverado just toĪdd a new stereo. Well first you didn't qualify what you're putting this on!
Tow ready battery isolation solenoid manuals#
You used to be able to find owner's manuals for nearly anything through their online parts site, but it's not that way in this case. One other thing, there's a nylon machine screw in what I assume is the gear case, I suspect this is for adding some type of gear oil/grease? There is another threaded hole opposite where the nylon machine screw is (3 o'clock/9 o'clock, on the third picture), I don't know if that's also supposed to have another nylon screw. My intended use is to pull things into my pick up, or onto a ~4' X 8' open, flat-bed trailer. Input, please, and thank-you.Īfter I get this squared-away for proper placement of the wires, I'll buy a switch and power cord, and a relay. My concern is, I don't want to short things out, because I have this wrong. Then the two copper threaded studs are used for power-in and power-out, providing 12V + to one or the other of the threaded studs. I suspect it's probably a simple wiring, where the negative should go to somewhere on the winch bracket when the winch is mounted to the vehicle, or wherever it's going to be placed.
Tow ready battery isolation solenoid manual#
I tried finding the manual for it on the Sears site, no luck. It's currently pouring outside (no leaks!).I have an older Sears winch. If no to question 2, do I just buy the T-MAX kit, but instead of completely removing all of the wiring, just modify what I have (after disconnecting everything, cutting the positive to positive cable to include the fuses, connecting the two pieces to the solenoid, adding the monitor wiring)? Is there a way to utilize what I currently have - current wiring, current unused Stinger SGP32 - to achieve something similar to the T-MAX setup?ģ. Essentially, is this safe enough to park in my garage? (Rather ask a basic question that not.!)Ģ. How fearful should I be of the lack of fuses? I don't know what the odds are of a short (since the truck has been driven this way for a while), nor do I understand when a short is most likely. Other internet searches say some vehicles that come with dual battery setups from the factory don't have fuses either.ġ.
I've read that if there is a short in a line, you want a fuse close to each end to avoid having a live arc welder in your hood, causing a fire, etc. There is also a line that runs from the aux positive back to the rear right of the car where there is a fuse box installed and a 12v port for a fridge.īack to my biggest concern: the lack of 200 amp fuses on each end of the positive cable connecting the two batteries. It looks like there is a connector broken off at one of the posts, but no positive cables running to it, no other cables running to it. but it has nothing save a ground wire coming off of it. There is a Stinger SGP32 200 Amp Battery Relay Isolator mounted near the aux battery. There is no solenoid that I can find, no battery monitor like the T-MAX kit, the positive red wiring goes down behind the ARB front bumper, and - my biggest concern - no fuses on the wire between the positive main and positive aux posts.
I think that's where the similarities end.
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